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Perfect Day of Pasta,
by Susan Fish
"Wherever I go, I love to see how
people live, and cooking and eating are among the best
ways to be part of someone's ordinary life. Dave and I
were excited to go to Italy for the food every bit as much as the
art. We decided early on that we were interested in taking a cooking
class while we were in Italy - to be able to bring skills and taste
home with us. We looked at all sorts of classes in Florence - we
could spend our whole time abroad studying how to be chefs (and
spending our children's inheritance as we went!) Finally we discovered
The Accidental Tourist www.accidentaltourist.com
and it sounded like a great fit: for a very reasonable price,
they would pick us up in Florence, drive us to an old farmhouse,
teach us how to make pasta and feed us the pasta as part of a Tuscan
lunch, before driving us back to the city.
Perfetto, as they say.
That it would be a great fit was confirmed when
I sent an email to book our spaces in a class, and the enthusiastic
response was: Canada! We love Canada! If you bring us maple syrup,
we will trade it for our olive oil.
Our kind of people indeed!
Majla, the brains behind the
operation, picked us up in her car and drove us to an ancient farmhouse
("Most of the house is over a thousand years old, but
the kitchen is only 850 years old," she explained,
while we swallowed our New World tongues in shock.) En route, we
talked about our families, our soccer-loving sons and why she encourages
her son not to play soccer ("It's like a religion here - they
end up as underwear models!")
She pointed out the lack of suburbs around Florence, how the line
between city and country was abrupt. She talked about the care that
has been taken by small villages to prevent urban sprawl that could
destroy the land they depend upon for their olives. Passionate
about preserving a culture and its food, Majla herself
returned to Italy after a decade in the United States when she inherited
a house with a tower. Now, after eleven years of
juggling her business and her family, her enthusiasm has not diminished.
She talked about the lower rates of depression in Italy, about how
Italians mix work and pleasure - and how her business was an example
of that.
She told us about real Italian olive oil - how
the best of it is hand picked from steep slopes, pressed within
48 hours of picking, never heated (even though that increases the
yield dramatically) so that the taste and healthful properties remain
intact. She says that the olive oil we will take home with us is
never sold overseas, that there is never enough even for the local
families. All this we learn while negotiating winding woodland roads
where fields and groves fall away from us into beautiful sunlit
valleys.
We arrive at the ancient farmhouse
and are greeted by its owners and their cat, who pounces each time
the wind rustles the grass. Our fellow pasta-chefs-in-training have
opted for the full day with the Accidental Tourist and are not yet
back from the morning wine tasting. Majla sets us up at a stone
table outside where we can watch the clouds stream past the hilltops
and trace the road we have come from. She brings us a bottle of
fresh red wine, two tumblers and a plate of bread drenched in olive
oil and salt. She apologizes for starting late but we have not a
single regret as we eat and drink the most delicious simple
meal.
Finally the others arrive and we meet Alex, our
young teacher. A musician by night, Alex shares tour duty with his
father, which enables them both to stay in the region that is home
to them. We begin to realize how important place is to Italians.
We slip into the cool basement of the farmhouse
and don aprons. There are ten of us: four Canadians, two British,
and four Americans. Alex walks us through each step (I am sworn
to secrecy about the process. And really you must go and
try it yourself.) with good humour and good teaching. We
laugh and make friends. Our first accomplishment
is to make spinach-ricotta-parmesan ravioli and
then we use the rest of our dough to make fettucine.
Alex says we are quick learners.
Majla takes our pasta upstairs on trays to Christiana,
the lady of the house and a cook among cooks. (A recipe
she sends me later of one of the dishes she made for us says of
basil, "For God's sake, do not use dried basil."). We
talk and sip more wine from brilliant mismatched turquoise glass
tumblers. We find seats around a large oval table that takes up
much of this "new" kitchen. Christiana and Alex start
us off with a zucchini frittata and a cauliflower
dish as antipasti. There is much debate about which
one is better - and no clear winner. This is followed by
squares of pizza, and then comes our pasta: the fettucine
has been tossed with the lightest tomato sauce, with a
hint of olive oil and hot pepper, while the ravioli have
been cooked and then rolled in butter melted with sage leaves.
We are magnificent chefs - with Christiana's additions. Alex takes
orders for coffee and brings us tiny cups of espresso while Majla
passes us bowls of homemade tiramisu.
We all bow down to Christiana who smiles. She
loves to cook and loves having her cooking appreciated.
Majla shows us gifts that have been sent to Christiana by her fans
around the world. Christiana may appreciate the rasp the most, but
I liked the little statue of Barack Obama.
On the way back to the city, I tell Majla
we won't possibly be able to eat supper. She says that everyone
always says that, but she suspects we will. She wants to know later,
wants me to tell her when I email her some maple recipes (in exchange
for Christiana's recipes she promises me). We pick up a couple of
slices of pizza on our way back to where we are staying, but that
night I am still too happily full to take more than a few bites."
Dave and Susan Fish |
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Here is a long overdue update of our "your
comments" page.
First of all, heartfelt thanks to all our happy "accidental toursits"
who provided this flattering material, and an apology to those who wrote
great reviews of our tours and are not quoted on this page: we could only
show off a very small selection of comments but we have kept all on our
books, and in our hearts. Without you - yes, you! enthusiastic, adventurous,
appreciative traveller - we wouldn't be in business.
If you have been on our tours already and recognize your comment on this
page, you are welcome to write us and fill the missing info (last name,
city, anything!).
- "YOU GUYS ARE PHENOMENAL! I've been on this
tour before (May 1999) and it only gets better! The house, the guides,
the selection of foods... You guys have outdone yourselves! I will recommend
you to everyone... It's a guaranteed magical time. Thank you!"
Amy Wurschum
- "Thank you so much !!! I work at a hotel
in the States and I have never seen anything like this before!! So much
kindness and warmth!!
What a beautiful spot!! I feel so blessed to have this opportunity!!
Amazing food and wonderful people!!
Aime Occhipinti, NYC, USA
- "THIS HAS HONESTLY been one of the best
days I have spent in Italy!
The tour , villa, food and wine were exceptional. The people were particularly
fantastic, enhancing the experience. La Dolce Vita indeed.
Thank you for a beautiful peak the tuscan life. i will never forget
it."
Sara Matsuzaka, Darien, CT
- "WELL WORTH COMING 12,000 miles for. What a
pity New Zealand is so far away from Firenze"
Kevin Hayes, Whanganee, NZ
- "THANK YOU SO MUCH for conceiving and executing
this idea so wonderfully. A unique tour to say the least. Well done.
Grazie!"
Krista Blair, CA USA
- "FABULOUS! The best italian experience I could
have hoped for! Gianni and Cristiana were wonderful, Amy and Elisa were
knoledgeable and open and the perfect tour guides. I would reccomend
this trip to anyone!"
Shelley and Dan Joslin, Portland OR
- "A GREAT DAY. Weather was perfect, bike ride
terrific, and lunch was a special treat - in a 900-year-old farmhouse,
wow!!
All staff were great, and impart a unique view, Thanks!"
Marshall Ferholy
- "MOLTO BENE GRAZIE! I feel that I got closer
to the real italian lifestyle.
I don't even know what else to say, I am so amazed. Thank you."
Mike Dematteo, University of Connecticut, CT
- "WE HAVE DIED AND GONE TO HEAVEN! Fantastico!"
Karl and Emma Fletcher, Mudgee Australia 06820
- "THIS HAS BEEN ONE of the most memorable experiences
of our trip.
Your countryside is absolutely beautiful - better than words could ever
express - your hospitality is beyond excellent.
Thank you so much for a truly happy time."
Eun and Matt Gwopole
- "THANK YOU FOR A WONDERFUL, authentic italian
experience.
This will be one of our favourite memories.
The country and the people were amazing. Grazie!"
The Jordans, Atlanta, GA
- "WOWIE, this day has been AWESOME! Each hour
was a new surprise...!
I wish this tour was a week long! Thank you to the amazing chef and
hostess who left a real taste of Italy in our mouthes, and of course
the wonderful guides! Cheers,"
Cecily Kaiser, Brooklyn NYC
- "THIS DAY GOT YUMMIER
and yummier from the olive oil to dessert! I am so glad I did this -
you really got a great operation going. Thank you!!!"
Lisbeth Kaiser, Glen Rocks, NJ
- "A FANTASTIC TOUR I would recommend to anyone.
Thank you for a lovely time and the opportunity to see and learn about
the tuscan counstryside. A very well done and well organized tour. Thanks!"
Ryan & Lee Mc Gwenn
- "BEING WITH YOU in your beautiful country delighting
in your cuisine
has been a joy for a lifetime. Grazie, grazie, forever grazie."
Sharon Hajek, West chester, OH 45069
- "GRAZIE! Today exceeeded my expectations by
far:
my tour companions - delightful
The food - delicious
The music - haunting
The countryside - breathtaking
Our hosts - gracious beyond measure
Our guide - excellent
I'll recommend to those visiting Tuscany"
Michelle Owens
- "THANK YOU THANK YOU for this incredible experience
and your wonderful hospitality. You all are the heart and soul of Tuscany
and I will never forget any of you!"
Geena Moberg, Cincinnati, OH USA
- "THANK YOU FOR A WANDERFUL DAY. Especially
thanks for your excellent service to me being a handicapped person.
Best regards."
Kelle Madsen, DENMARK.
- "PROBABLY THE BEST DAY SPENT SO FAR. Spectacular
scenery, great food, delicious wine. The guide was knowledgeable and
friendly. I learned about this tour from folks in Baltimore and I will
pass the word along."
Bear Stiffler, BALTIMORE, MD.
- "I WAS TOLD THIS WOULD BE MY BEST DAY IN FLORENCE.
It was probably my best day in Italy. The food, the scenery, the knowledge
and encouragement of the guide all added to a great experience.
...
The day in Chianti with The Accidental Tourist group was one of the
best days we spent in Italy. The combination of biking, wine and olive
oil tasting and lunch made for a perfect day. I would highly recommend
it for someone looking to get away from the maddening crowd of Florence
for a day! PERFECTO!"
Steve and Maureen Stricker, RIVER FOREST, IL.
- "I'M AT A LOSS OF WORDS! It was a serendipitous
that I found your flyer. Our tour leader was the perfect blend of experience
and encouragement. There is no way we could have had this experience
without the accidental tourist. The size and composition of our group
was wonderful and fascinating to talk to. I wish you great success and
hope that you don’t have to change the nature of this trip, as
it was the highlight of our 3 weeks in Europe."
Christina Weaver, RAHWAY, NJ.
- "THIS TOURS WAS EXCEPTIONAL. By far the highlight
of our trip to Italy. The tour guide was very friendly and knowledgeable
of the area; the restaurant had a wonderful atmosphere and food. My
wife and I are on our honeymoon and wanted to do something not so tourist
like, and this was it. I cannot say enough about the experience. BRAVISSIMO!"
David Herbert, DALLAS, TX.
- "THE TOUR WAS EVERYTHING I HOPED IT WOULD
BE. Beautiful scenery, great exercise and knowledgeable friendly guides."
Julie Lubin, LONG ISLAND, NY.
- "INFORMATIVE, WELL-PACED, WELL DESIGNED
- AND LOTS OF FUN. Thank you for a truly memorable day."
Martha and Lilly Smith, ARLINGTON.
- "AFTER THE HUSTLE AND BUSTLE OF FLORENCE,
this was a welcome retreat. Totally relaxing, and we got a glimpse of
Tuscan life that I am sure is very rare. The scenery is indescribable,
and our guides made the day an experience that we wont soon forget.
GRAZIE!
We will recommend this tour to anyone we know planning a trip to Italy."<br>
Jennifer Bishon, MINNEAPOLIS, MN.
- "THE ACCIDENTAL TOURIST TOUR WAS ONE
OF THE BEST TRIP I HAVE EVER BEEN ON. The guides were wonderful and
the scenery was magnificent. Definitely a day not to be missed when
visiting Tuscany."
Ali Ritt, CHICAGO, IL.
- "WHAT A WAY TO START a new month. Was
absolutely fantastic to have such a scenic outlook in Tuscany. The ride
was excellent, food very tasty, great company and very good value. Will
do my best to spread the word about you guys. Won’t wish you luck
because your company can only get stronger. Keep it up."
David Mc Carthy, MELBOURNE, AUSTRTALIA ("a very satisfied customer").
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